The Iceland Chronicles. Snaefellsness back and forth.

Working title: The butt of the world.

18. January 2019

Recap: I want to see northern lights and it’s my birthday in March. So what better excuse to say goodbye go to Iceland in March to start looking for Northern Lights? Here you get to part 1 of the series.
But first… Before the three-hour drive from Reykjavik to Snaefellsness could begin, a little movement was inevitable. Thanks to the central location of the hostel, Hallgrimskirkja was only a stone’s throw away and we all know I love a good view. The elevator goes up, but it costs a proud 8€ (1000 ISK) to let the ice wind blow around your ears. The view is really not bad.

Disclaimer: The whole thing was organized and financed by myself. I didn’t receive any material or financial consideration from anyone for a link, a mention or anything else. And still ADVERTISEMENT: for Icewaer, West Park guesthouses, Google Maps and affiliate links.

Tip: there’ s an ice-wear store downtown. I didn’t even put on my H&M hat. The Icewear headband has grown on my head during the 2 weeks. Was just warmer.

Off to Snaefellsness

I have to admit that I only chose a few corners because I liked the pictures I encountered in advance. How else can you plan? Snaefellsness was one of the corners I really wanted to see. Whereby it doesn’t really matter where you go in Iceland. You have an incredibly fascinating and beautiful, unique landscape everywhere.

As soon as you’re out of Reykjavik and beyond the Golden Circle, civilization and people and sounds are over and where you thought before “WOW” you’re driving with your mouth open and “WTF?” past snow-covered slopes and bumpy lava fields. You can see who is coming towards the day after tomorrow and you can be curious about the weather behind the next corner, because like in Dublin the weather in Iceland changed three times an hour. You want to stop everywhere and take one more photo and one more. And ends with 1000+ pictures because you take pictures in all 4 directions at every stop.

Hotel Review: West Park Guesthouse

The Guesthouse is located directly in a national park near Helissandur* not far away from the sea. You can walk for miles in both directions and encounter nothing but vastness and even more nothing. The entire complex comprises 8 houses with 4 rooms each, which share a kitchen, bathroom and living room. To my astonishment, my house was full. Anyway, it often surprised me that there were still people lost to the prick of the world. The house was clean, all the residents kept taking off their shoes at the entrance and not walking through the apartment with their dirty boots. Only thing, the whole place is really beyond everything.


  • Position: 4/5
  • Cost/benefit: 3/5
  • Equipment: 3/5
  • Cleanliness: 4/5
  • Other: 4/5
  • Total: 18/25
  • Ø 3,6

Tips for driving in Iceland

What you simply have to get used to in Iceland: “just” driving from the accommodation somewhere is usually not possible. Here half an hour, there half an hour and suddenly one has been “briefly” three hours on the way, because you wanted to see the crevice and forgot to buy cookies. To think about a fixed route is key.

Even if the streets invite you to speed, leave your lead foot at home.

In Iceland a maximum speed of 90km/h outside the cities is prescribed. You should really stick to it. I was overtaken somewhere in the middle of nowhere by a speeding car, 20 minutes and a few miles later it was standing there in the ditch because it was stopped by the police. If you are interested just google; Iceland can be expensive to pay for, but as far as I know you still get a discount if you pay the penalty directly.

Speeding unwanted

I belonged to the driving traffic obstructions. The car started to clatter and sway beyond the 80’s and you didn’t hear your own performance anymore. At 70 you can see more of the area and even get a better idea of the stopping bays every few kilometres. The only disadvantage is that it didn’t take me as long as Google Maps predicted. Usually it was 1-3 hours more and I often sat in the car for 5-6 hours because I stopped everywhere. One stops here, there, looks at the view and has one or the other sightseeing spot on the route.

Snaefellsness in pictures - Kirkjufellfoss

Probably one of the most photographed motifs on Iceland. And rightly so. Kirkjufell


The whole trip was miserable weather, arriving at the guesthouse the world went under and when I looked into the sky it didn’t look very promising. As I told you before, the weather in Iceland changes quite often, so you should always have a look at the official weather page. Because it is damn accurate. And so it happened that a small window without rain and maybe even with sun was announced and I “just” drove to the coast where I wanted to go. Half an hour I was able to catch the last sunbeams before the gate to the weather hell opened for the rest of the evening.

The Londrangar Coast.


Taking Snaefellsness with just one night was not my best idea. It’s more driving than really seeing anything. But you don’t know beforehand what is worth it and which area you could have avoided. It’s a national park that you can’t “just” explore if you only have a really short time window.
The best plan is probably to explore Snaefellsness and the Westfjords together or just the Ring Road. A combination of both is really only worthwhile if you take your time and spent 4 weeks on the island.

And tomorrow? There we first visit the trolls....

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